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Drainage & LeaksPlumbingHome SafetyJanuary 08, 2023
What Type of Gas Line Do I Have?
Using natural gas for cooking and heating instead of electricity has several advantages. Gas furnaces and water heaters are generally less expensive than electrical models. Gas tends to heat more quickly, which is why some people prefer gas cooktops over electricity. A gas fireplace adds warmth and a cozy ambiance to the winter months.
Like any other system in your home, your natural gas system needs periodic service, too. Many homeowners know little about natural gas but know it can be hazardous, so they are intimidated by it. The purpose of this article is to provide the homeowner (and potential homeowner) with basic information on the construction and maintenance of residential natural gas lines. We hope this knowledge will lessen any anxiety you may feel.
Read on for details on common materials and installation practices for residential gas lines and potential problems that may occur.
The natural gas provider in your area maintains the gas distribution system in each neighborhood up to the gas meter at each home. The piping extending from the gas meter to the home is the homeowner’s responsibility.
If your gas meter is in your alley or in another location that is not immediately adjacent to your house, the gas line connecting the meter to your home is your responsibility. This means you must repair and maintain it.
When the gas meter is located within a foot or so of the house, the gas company will repair and maintain the line connecting the meter to the main supply line.
Black Iron / Galvanized Steel Yard Line
Steel was commonly used for gas lines in homes built in the 1970s and before. If your home was built before 1980, your gas line is probably steel (unless it has already been replaced with a different material).
Steel gas pipe is cut to the appropriate length, and the ends are threaded. The line will be buried underground in a horizontal trench through your backyard. At each end, 90-degree fittings are attached. One end enters the home to supply gas to the appliances. There may be a shut-off valve here. The other end is connected to the meter.
Steel gas lines do not last forever. After years of contact with moisture in the ground, they rust and corrode. Eventually, the line will begin to leak somewhere.
When an underground gas line leaks, you may notice a strong sulfur smell, a patch of dead grass (above the leak), or an unusually high gas bill. Given the nature of gas line failures, rather than repairing one leak, the most economical choice is typically to replace the entire line at once if it is made of steel material. This involves digging a trench and replacing the pipe.
Polyethylene Yard Line
Plastic, a.k.a. polyethylene or “poly” gas pipes, became available for residential construction in the mid-to late-1970s. Because plastic doesn’t rust, there is no worry about the moisture in the ground causing these pipes to fail. One long line of jointless plastic pipe runs the line underground. “Anodeless risers,” which are L-shaped transition fittings, attach the plastic underground line to the steel line above the ground.
The main downside of polyethylene pipe is that it isn’t as hard as steel pipe. A shovel or wood stake driven into the ground could split or puncture if hit with a shovel or a wood stake. Accidental damage is homeowners' primary problem with this type of gas line.
If a poly gas line leaks, it is usually in the above-ground steel pipe or underground riser connections. These uncommon leaks are caused by improper installation or shifting ground. The leak is usually discovered because of an unexplained gas bill increase or a sulfur smell in the area.
If a gas fitting inside your home develops a leak, you will smell the sulfur odor of the natural gas. If you think you have a gas leak inside your home, see our service page for information on what to do.
A CSST system will have a shut-off valve for each appliance at the manifold. (Think of this manifold as a master control panel for the gas system.) Then, the smaller CSST gas lines will travel across the attic and go down the walls to supply gas to each room where it is needed for an appliance. Again, a rigid steel pipe is attached to the CSST, which comes out of the wall to connect to the appliance. Here, there will be another shut-off valve.
However, the stainless steel tubing is thinner than steel and, therefore, is easier to damage accidentally. An errant nail or screw can easily pierce it. CSST installation best practices include measures to prevent this, but unfortunately, the lines are still accidentally punctured with some frequency.
GET AN ESTIMATE
Like any other system in your home, your natural gas system needs periodic service, too. Many homeowners know little about natural gas but know it can be hazardous, so they are intimidated by it. The purpose of this article is to provide the homeowner (and potential homeowner) with basic information on the construction and maintenance of residential natural gas lines. We hope this knowledge will lessen any anxiety you may feel.
Read on for details on common materials and installation practices for residential gas lines and potential problems that may occur.
Gas Meter Location
Your gas meter is most likely in the alley behind your house or on the side of your home. It is a metal device approximately the size of a backpack suspended off the ground by pipes. It is often painted gray or dark green.The natural gas provider in your area maintains the gas distribution system in each neighborhood up to the gas meter at each home. The piping extending from the gas meter to the home is the homeowner’s responsibility.
If your gas meter is in your alley or in another location that is not immediately adjacent to your house, the gas line connecting the meter to your home is your responsibility. This means you must repair and maintain it.
When the gas meter is located within a foot or so of the house, the gas company will repair and maintain the line connecting the meter to the main supply line.
Materials Used for Gas Lines in the Yard
Two common materials for residential gas lines buried in the yard are black iron or galvanized steel and plastic or polyethylene.Black Iron / Galvanized Steel Yard Line
Steel was commonly used for gas lines in homes built in the 1970s and before. If your home was built before 1980, your gas line is probably steel (unless it has already been replaced with a different material).
Steel gas pipe is cut to the appropriate length, and the ends are threaded. The line will be buried underground in a horizontal trench through your backyard. At each end, 90-degree fittings are attached. One end enters the home to supply gas to the appliances. There may be a shut-off valve here. The other end is connected to the meter.
Steel gas lines do not last forever. After years of contact with moisture in the ground, they rust and corrode. Eventually, the line will begin to leak somewhere.
When an underground gas line leaks, you may notice a strong sulfur smell, a patch of dead grass (above the leak), or an unusually high gas bill. Given the nature of gas line failures, rather than repairing one leak, the most economical choice is typically to replace the entire line at once if it is made of steel material. This involves digging a trench and replacing the pipe.
Polyethylene Yard Line
Plastic, a.k.a. polyethylene or “poly” gas pipes, became available for residential construction in the mid-to late-1970s. Because plastic doesn’t rust, there is no worry about the moisture in the ground causing these pipes to fail. One long line of jointless plastic pipe runs the line underground. “Anodeless risers,” which are L-shaped transition fittings, attach the plastic underground line to the steel line above the ground.
The main downside of polyethylene pipe is that it isn’t as hard as steel pipe. A shovel or wood stake driven into the ground could split or puncture if hit with a shovel or a wood stake. Accidental damage is homeowners' primary problem with this type of gas line.
If a poly gas line leaks, it is usually in the above-ground steel pipe or underground riser connections. These uncommon leaks are caused by improper installation or shifting ground. The leak is usually discovered because of an unexplained gas bill increase or a sulfur smell in the area.
Black Iron Piping in the Home
After the gas line reaches the house, it must supply gas to various appliances throughout the house, including water heaters, furnaces, gas cooktops, clothes dryers, ovens, fireplaces, fire features, etc. Most homes around here built more than 15 years ago use black iron or steel piping to supply gas inside. The pipe is cut to the correct length and threaded during home construction. The gas line and fittings are manually assembled at this time.System Design
A larger size pipe is used where the gas line first enters the home (usually 1.5”. 1.25”, or 1” IPS). This “main run” is the primary gas supply line for the home and is usually located in the attic. Smaller pipes “tee” off of the main run and run down into the walls in various rooms where they emerge to supply gas to the appliances. Each gas appliance should have a shutoff valve with a red, yellow, or gray handle.Common Problems
The steel gas pipes inside homes are tough and do not easily damage. The main place we find problems with this type of gas line is at the threaded connections. Temperature fluctuations in an attic cause the pipes to expand and contract, which can cause leaks at the fittings, especially if the piping was not installed well during construction.If a gas fitting inside your home develops a leak, you will smell the sulfur odor of the natural gas. If you think you have a gas leak inside your home, see our service page for information on what to do.
CSST Gas Systems
Homes built after the mid-2000s often have a Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing (CSST) gas line system. This gas line is constructed with a flexible, lightweight pipe that is very easy to install. CSST materials can be more expensive, but builders feel they are worth the investment because their ease of installation results in significantly lower labor costs.System Design
Once the line enters the house, the transition to CSST is made. The CSST line continues until the mainline reaches a manifold, where the smaller lines connect to the main line.A CSST system will have a shut-off valve for each appliance at the manifold. (Think of this manifold as a master control panel for the gas system.) Then, the smaller CSST gas lines will travel across the attic and go down the walls to supply gas to each room where it is needed for an appliance. Again, a rigid steel pipe is attached to the CSST, which comes out of the wall to connect to the appliance. Here, there will be another shut-off valve.
Common Problems
When CSST is installed in a manifold system, fewer potential leak spots occur because of fewer joints. The run from the manifold to the appliance is all in one line, with connections only at the ends.However, the stainless steel tubing is thinner than steel and, therefore, is easier to damage accidentally. An errant nail or screw can easily pierce it. CSST installation best practices include measures to prevent this, but unfortunately, the lines are still accidentally punctured with some frequency.
Conclusion
Now, you should better understand where your home's gas line system is, how it is constructed, and potential trouble signs to watch for. For more information, read our service page on gas leaks. It contains helpful information on actions to take if you suspect a gas leak and what we do when repairs are needed.GET AN ESTIMATE
